Fashion & Beauty
Black women in South Florida are joining a growing movement to shun chemical straighteners for their hair.
Rochelle Oliver collects opinions about Oprah Winfrey's natural look, featured on the September cover of "O" Magazine.
Rochelle Oliver
By Nadege Green
ngreen@miamiherald.com
Mambo Awasum’s hair journey mirrors that of many young black girls.
When she turned 8 years old, her mother took her to a salon to have her hair chemically straightened. It was a rite of passage, of sorts, for Awasum, leaving behind her kinky braids and Afro-puffs for a more polished look.
“It was my first perm,” she recalled. “I had really thick hair and when my mom asked me if I wanted one, I thought it would be easier.”
Twelve years later, she would cut off her chemically processed hair to return it to its natural texture. Years of wearing a relaxer had weakened the strands.
“It was thinning in some places,” said Awasum, a Barry University graduate student. “It wouldn’t grow.”
In natural hair circles, it’s called “the big chop”— getting a close-to-the-scalp cut to rid the hair of chemicals.
Now, 26 and sporting an Afro, Awasum is part of a growing community of black women in South Florida who are shunning chemical straighteners. Motivated by different factors — damaged hair, the economy, self-love — the popularity of natural hair has gained traction in recent years.
At the Oscars
Hollywood has embraced the trend. When actress Viola Davis walked down the Oscars’ red carpet this year, wearing her close-cropped curly Afro, “this was a moment that said, ‘we have arrived,’” said Patrice Grell Yursik, a leading Chicago-based natural hair blogger.
O Magazine’s September edition addresses the issue head on, as Oprah Winfrey appears, for the first time, on the cover “without blow-drying or straightening her hair.”
Mainstream retail outlets also are picking up on the natural hair trend. Once hard-to-find products for curly hair and Afros, once relegated to a dark corner in ethnic beauty supply stores, now are readily stocked on the shelves of Wal-Mart and Target.
But it still can be a touchy subject in the black community.
“Historically, hair and skin color have been cultural signifiers of the black community,” said Yursik , who blogs about natural hair at Afrobella.com. “This really does go back to the days of slavery where skin color and hair texture could determine your position in life. I don’t believe that it’s true anymore, but it’s still ingrained in us.”
During the recent Olympic games in London, gymnast and gold medal winner Gabby Douglas, who wears her hair straight, faced a backlash on social media and in the blogosphere about the texture of her hair.
It wasn’t straight enough at the roots, critics carped.
Educational blog
Yursik started Afrobella.com while living in Kendall. Part of her motivation, she said was the lack of information available to women who wanted to go natural. Her blog educates and uplifts, she said.
“When I was in Miami, there weren’t any women I could look to who wore their hair natural,” she said, so she turned to the Internet.
That has since changed.
Now, South Florida women who are natural or thinking of going natural have support groups and social events targeted to “naturalistas.” The Fabulous Miami Naturals group on meetup.com hosts monthly sessions and other social events for curlfriends.
At a recent meetup in North Miami Beach, about 15 women settled down with cups of java at Starbucks to discuss tips and products. It was part informational and part support group.
“There’s a lot of mystery about being natural. It’s like ‘what do we do now?’” said Sudi Elliot, who co-organizes the group.
She said she was stumped when she was transitioning from using a relaxer to having a mass of textured curls.
“It was like an alien on top of my head,’’ she said. “What am I going to do with it?’’’ she would ask her husband in frustration. “I felt overwhelmed.”
Many women turn to the Internet for guidance, where they find bloggers and YouTube channels dedicated solely to naturals.
Simone Hylton, a natural hair specialist, said she often reassures her clients that they are not alone in their natural hair journey.
“People cry in my chair when I cut off their hair and they see it in its natural state. They say. ‘It’s natural and nappy. It doesn’t look good,” said Hylton, co-owner of Natural Trendsetters Salon in South Florida. “It’s really important to have support to get through it.”
And she talks frankly about the lingering stigmas, real or imagined, associated with women who wear their hair natural. Some clients said they get warnings from friends that they would not land jobs or be taken seriously with “that kind of hair.”
Awasum, who is studying for her master’s, said she too was cautioned against a look that could be considered “too ethnic” or “too wild.”
“My friends said people would laugh at me and look at me funny if I had natural hair. They warned me I would not be able to deal with the comments that come with it, but I was fine,” Asawum said.
“In 2012, natural hair can be professional. You can embrace it ”
When she turned 8 years old, her mother took her to a salon to have her hair chemically straightened. It was a rite of passage, of sorts, for Awasum, leaving behind her kinky braids and Afro-puffs for a more polished look.
“It was my first perm,” she recalled. “I had really thick hair and when my mom asked me if I wanted one, I thought it would be easier.”
Twelve years later, she would cut off her chemically processed hair to return it to its natural texture. Years of wearing a relaxer had weakened the strands.
“It was thinning in some places,” said Awasum, a Barry University graduate student. “It wouldn’t grow.”
In natural hair circles, it’s called “the big chop”— getting a close-to-the-scalp cut to rid the hair of chemicals.
Now, 26 and sporting an Afro, Awasum is part of a growing community of black women in South Florida who are shunning chemical straighteners. Motivated by different factors — damaged hair, the economy, self-love — the popularity of natural hair has gained traction in recent years.
At the Oscars
Hollywood has embraced the trend. When actress Viola Davis walked down the Oscars’ red carpet this year, wearing her close-cropped curly Afro, “this was a moment that said, ‘we have arrived,’” said Patrice Grell Yursik, a leading Chicago-based natural hair blogger.
O Magazine’s September edition addresses the issue head on, as Oprah Winfrey appears, for the first time, on the cover “without blow-drying or straightening her hair.”
Mainstream retail outlets also are picking up on the natural hair trend. Once hard-to-find products for curly hair and Afros, once relegated to a dark corner in ethnic beauty supply stores, now are readily stocked on the shelves of Wal-Mart and Target.
But it still can be a touchy subject in the black community.
“Historically, hair and skin color have been cultural signifiers of the black community,” said Yursik , who blogs about natural hair at Afrobella.com. “This really does go back to the days of slavery where skin color and hair texture could determine your position in life. I don’t believe that it’s true anymore, but it’s still ingrained in us.”
During the recent Olympic games in London, gymnast and gold medal winner Gabby Douglas, who wears her hair straight, faced a backlash on social media and in the blogosphere about the texture of her hair.
It wasn’t straight enough at the roots, critics carped.
Educational blog
Yursik started Afrobella.com while living in Kendall. Part of her motivation, she said was the lack of information available to women who wanted to go natural. Her blog educates and uplifts, she said.
“When I was in Miami, there weren’t any women I could look to who wore their hair natural,” she said, so she turned to the Internet.
That has since changed.
Now, South Florida women who are natural or thinking of going natural have support groups and social events targeted to “naturalistas.” The Fabulous Miami Naturals group on meetup.com hosts monthly sessions and other social events for curlfriends.
At a recent meetup in North Miami Beach, about 15 women settled down with cups of java at Starbucks to discuss tips and products. It was part informational and part support group.
“There’s a lot of mystery about being natural. It’s like ‘what do we do now?’” said Sudi Elliot, who co-organizes the group.
She said she was stumped when she was transitioning from using a relaxer to having a mass of textured curls.
“It was like an alien on top of my head,’’ she said. “What am I going to do with it?’’’ she would ask her husband in frustration. “I felt overwhelmed.”
Many women turn to the Internet for guidance, where they find bloggers and YouTube channels dedicated solely to naturals.
Simone Hylton, a natural hair specialist, said she often reassures her clients that they are not alone in their natural hair journey.
“People cry in my chair when I cut off their hair and they see it in its natural state. They say. ‘It’s natural and nappy. It doesn’t look good,” said Hylton, co-owner of Natural Trendsetters Salon in South Florida. “It’s really important to have support to get through it.”
And she talks frankly about the lingering stigmas, real or imagined, associated with women who wear their hair natural. Some clients said they get warnings from friends that they would not land jobs or be taken seriously with “that kind of hair.”
Awasum, who is studying for her master’s, said she too was cautioned against a look that could be considered “too ethnic” or “too wild.”
“My friends said people would laugh at me and look at me funny if I had natural hair. They warned me I would not be able to deal with the comments that come with it, but I was fine,” Asawum said.
“In 2012, natural hair can be professional. You can embrace it ”
More from Fashion & Beauty
Meet-up and Social Groups
• South Florida Nappturals
• Fabulous Miami Naturals
• Naturals in the Sun
• Cocoa Curls
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